The Lost Climber of El Capitan: How Jason Martinez Was Found 27 Years After He Vanished

Jason Martinez had been climbing since he was 14. He discovered it during a family trip to Yosemite — that moment when his hands first met the rock, when movement and balance became instinct. By 27, he was one of the most promising climbers in California, known for his calm precision and quiet obsession with the granite walls of El Capitan.

But by 1994, the established routes weren’t enough. Jason wanted something no one had done before — a new line across the southwest face of El Capitan, one of the last unclimbed sections of the 3,000-foot wall. It would be his masterpiece, his legacy.

On October 12, 1994, he kissed his girlfriend Maria goodbye and promised to be careful. He packed food and water for three days and drove to Yosemite. The next morning, he began his climb. A fellow climber named Derek saw him gearing up. “You sure about going solo?” Derek asked. Jason smiled. “I’ve got this.” Those were the last words anyone ever heard from him.

When Jason failed to return, rangers launched a full search. Helicopters circled. Spotters scanned the wall with binoculars. They found his car, his tent — but no trace of Jason. After ten days, the search was called off. He was declared missing, presumed dead.

For years, Maria returned to Yosemite every October, standing at the base of El Capitan, staring up at the wall. She believed he was still there, hidden somewhere in the granite. She was right.

In June 2021, two climbers, Sarah Kim and Marcus Webb, were attempting an obscure route on the left side of the wall when Marcus spotted an old rope dangling under an overhang. It was sun-bleached, ancient, but still under tension. Curious, he rappelled down — and froze.

There, suspended in space, still clipped into his harness, was a body. A skeleton wearing remnants of old climbing gear. Hanging exactly as he had been when he died.

The recovery team worked for two days to reach him. When they finally brought him down, they found a waterproof notebook inside his harness. Inside, written in fading ink, was his name: Jason Martinez. The first entry dated October 13, 1994. The last, October 17.

Maria was called to Yosemite to receive the journal. Her hands trembled as she opened it. Page by page, Jason’s voice came alive — his excitement, his fall, his slow realization that he was trapped.

He’d been climbing an unclimbed section when a foothold broke, sending him swinging below an overhang. He wasn’t injured, but his position was impossible. The wall was smooth, the rope taut. He had left his ascenders — the tools needed to climb back up — at his last anchor to save weight.

He wrote about trying everything: swinging toward the wall, pulling himself hand-over-hand, yelling for help. He heard helicopters passing nearby but couldn’t be seen. His handwriting grew weaker with each entry. On October 17, his final words:

“To whoever finds this — my name is Jason Martinez. Tell Maria I love her. Tell my parents I didn’t suffer too much. That’s a lie, but tell them anyway. I tried. I really tried.”

He’d hung there for four days — close enough for rescuers to pass by, but invisible under the overhang. Then for 27 years more, the wall held him in silence.

Experts later said Jason’s position was a “dead zone,” invisible from above, below, or nearby routes. Thousands of climbers had passed within a few hundred feet without noticing the rope hidden in shadow.

When Maria learned what had happened, she wept — not just from grief, but from relief. After nearly three decades of wondering, she finally knew the truth.

At a small memorial at Yosemite, Jason’s final entry was read aloud to the crowd of climbers and friends. No one spoke afterward; they just looked up at the granite wall, imagining the young man who had once tried to conquer it — and instead became part of it.

In the months that followed, the climbing community honored him in their own way. The route Jason attempted was left unclimbed — a permanent memorial. A small bolt at the site bears his initials and dates, marking the place where he fought for his life.

Maria still visits every October 17th. She leaves a candle and a photo of the two of them from 1993, smiling atop El Capitan. “He’s still up there,” she once said softly. “But now he’s at peace.”

Jason Martinez’s story became a cautionary tale told to every new climber. It reminded them that the mountains don’t forgive pride, and that even the most skilled can vanish in the blink of an eye. Yet it also became a love story — about devotion that outlasted decades, about faith that never died.

Jason climbed El Capitan six times. Five were triumphs. The sixth became legend. His rope may have held him for 27 years, but love held his memory even longer.

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